Chinese Work Ethic Sunny Fong

Men's fashion carnage etcetera in all its naked glory…

Tag: fall 2009

Patrik Ervell Fall 2009

Great photo from Pipeline
I have a love/hate relationship with muted colours. Maybe because I don’t have the right look to wear them (some guys can look good in anything!) but I wear them anyway to shake things up. When I do sport something less solid or pure, I still feel sophisticated but sporty at the same time. I can’t explain it. Canvas, pastels, khaki, greys and off-whites are just the perfect palette for this fall. Last winter, I wore a lot of lighter fabrics and softer tones like light blue striped shirts, wrinkled camel sweaters, caramel jeans, distressed cottons…. Pairing them with a strong ski jacket, fuzzy cashmere scarves, dark pants and sometimes a chunky wool duffel. I even wore seeksucker in the middle of December.

Of course, instead of being hit with snowballs and wet flurries, I was mostly subjected to being pelted by negative reactions:

In reference to a jacket I wore to some bar: “Seersucker is so inappropriate right now!”
In reference to a light suit I wore to a wine tasting: “Are you trying to be ironic?”
In reference to a flesh coloured v-neck sweater I wore: “You look like you’re not wearing a shirt!”

I was surprised at all the efforts being made to point out that I was breaking some kind of unsaid societal code for dressing appropriately. This wasn’t jeans at a wedding or a hat at a funeral. This was just me being me: enjoying fashion.

This fall will be a light winter. And I’m not referring to the forecast but the colour palettes seen at the collections. Patrik Ervell is one of my favourites, championing off tones but using sharp athletic cuts…

I think the colour of this anorak is super cool, especially the yellow ochre Velcro detailing.

I enjoy this tweed + Dwight Shrutish buttoned up shirt combo.

This is a very interesting cut for a coat as it’s cut to be slightly baggier but still create sharp lines.

The speckly wool reminds me of the pencil skirts our grade school teachers used to wear in the 80’s, paired with a white blouse. I also really love this colour. It’s almost the colour of a California Raisin.

I can see myself in this. Despite this post, I will always love a punch of colour.

Make sure to check out his excellent Spring/Summer 2009 Collection as well.

His muse is the interesting new Russian kid who joins your 5th grade class, three months in. Ervell’s sensibilities are definitely out there but his silhouettes are just so adorable compared to all the Americana out there. A breath of fresh (winter) air.


Hermes Mens Collection Fall 2009

I was never a fan of Hermes’ clothing but I appreciate a good slate grey with a splash of lobster red. The tie is also super adorable. Is this the Mick Bagger guy?

I want this Hermes cardigan. It probably costs $1200 or something ridiculous. So maybe I’ll just another Primark knockoff for $9.

I’m hoping this isn’t real croc as that would make this coat incredibly expensive and extremely un-PC. But it looks like an embossed or etched leather to me so sign me up.

This will be the only time where I’ll champion yellow pants. I’ve been sporting grey and yellow a lot (one of my favourite colour combos) so I’ll give this get-up a thumbs up but really, only that guy can pull it off.

I’m into the subtle details. The smaller pointed collar, the torso lines and the silhouette of the slightly baggier sleeves. I’m also a big fan of guys who can button up their shirts all the way and get away with it. Okay, so he kinda looks like a busboy at a Hungarian restaurant but I’d hit it.

Menswear Fall 2009 Collections – The Good!

God, there’s a lot of bad clothing out there. But here are few of my favourites that didn’t make me cringe.

Corpus does this cute little plaid coat. I’ve always loved this colour combination for tartan (in the process of getting some cushions custom made next month) so if I didn’t already have 100 jackets, I’d order this. I particularly love the cut, the lapels and the zipper detailing.
Haven’t seen the two tone shoes in a while (they were super popular in my high school as I went to school with a lot of vintage freaks and indie kids) so it will be nice to see if they start going mainstream outside of Orange County.

I’m so sick of try-hard hipster colours and head-to-toe 90’s. Now I know why my mom was so exasperated when I used to wear 70’s stuff in high school. I love pure hues so much. And black. Not enough people wear black. Which is great because I will be rocking a lot of black when the leaves start falling. Structured black pieces. This Dior Homme jacket is incredibly chic.

Gilded Age takes duffel detailing but implements it into a pseudo-trench. The colour palette is part lumberjack, part Hamptons. I think Nathanielt148 would approve.

Though I don’t like the model choice, the look has interesting things happening. Helmut Lang is all about asymmetry and light fabrics. He’s the one person who can make airy fabrics seem hard and intimidating. The collar is very sophisticated and the layering is interesting. It’s downtown warrior chic.

More to come!

Alexander McQueen – Fall 2009

Well, I’m glad I did check out McQueen’s men’s collection after seeing the women’s couture collection.
Sexy Jack the Ripper chic?

I just watched the entire first season of True Blood (go Alan Ball go!) in two days so maybe I’m biased.

Great for an art opening at 9 and decapitating some whores at midnight:

These are two incredible coats:

I’m getting these boots:

And I found a vintage version of this coat in another closet. My grandfather had it made at Eaton’s but never wore it.

What a great print!

So much better than that stupid Fair Isle print that was all over the place two winters in a row:

I don’t know what to say:

He uses the same lobster red as the women’s collection:

This guy got a blowjob backstage but realized after he was late for his walk:

After a few underwhelming collections (I tried on the worst $2000 pants that basically fell apart while still on me in the fitting room), I’m glad to see that he’s usurping a lot of the Fall 2009 trends and just doing his own thing again. These clothes are decadent, simple, luxurious, classic and crazy hot.

Still got it, McQueen!

Alexander McQueen – Fall 2009 Women’s Couture

I’m a very difficult person to titillate when it comes to fashion so I was pleased to see that Alexander McQueen is still successfully pushing the envelope after all these years. While looking at these images from the New York Times, I was immediately filled with this feeling in the pit of my stomach. Probably because I was a little uneasy with the grotesqueness of these pieces but realized I was mostly turned on.

McQueen has always had an incredible eye for proportion and his earlier collections were often written off as fashion circus spectacles by the mainstream media but he has remained a beloved icon for fashionistas. When he was hired by Givenchy, he really set the bar. When he puts on a show, he puts on a motherfuckin’ show!

His Fall 2009 couture collection is an exceptional example of his eye for detail, his willingness to take risks and his ability to express his sensibilities visually in a collection of clothes. But in a way, this particular collection transcends the runway and speaks to the consumer in a way that’s controversial but also incredibly functional.

Part installation, part Recycle Chic, McQueen collection is shocking but surprisingly sophisticated. The silhouettes are incredible. The colour palette is gothic but still optimistic. I love that he not only uses a warmer lobster red but juxtoposes it with a few colder, bleaker crimsons and futuristic blacks.

Yes, the gowns are out there but the cuts are amazingly sharp and the knits are beautifully intricate. Without the lipstick schtick and the albino makeup, you have some very wearable and chic separates.

Philip Treacy’s hats are ridiculous but also a treat to see.

I find the whole thing incredibly inspiring even as a male. I didn’t post any of the enlarged houndstooth pieces because I’m not a big fan but something tells me it will grow on me soon.

Good to see the bad boy of fashion still has some vampire blood in his veins.
I’m going to check out the men’s collection right now…

Donegal tweed

For Fall 2009, it seems that donegal tweed will make a comeback. I think herringbone needs a little brother to play with.

I really like the look and feel of donegal tweed, particulary in a classic piece like a blazer.
But instead of looking too much like an early bird special, Band of Outsiders put a very subtle trim on their lapels to update the look.

Image taken from Band of Outsiders.

I’m championing the fabric for colder Spring days as well. I think it’s the perfect material to bring texture to your wardrobe.
Why wait till Fall 2009? With the shitty street fashion here in Toronto, it’s more likely that we’re going to start seeing it in Fall 2010.
So a heads up to those who want to be ahead of the game.

For some inspiration, take a look at this little firecracker:

This would be the perfect spring jacket to wear on your day out running errands. Put the hoodie away and show your neighbourhood grocer how eccentric you actually are. Haha. The pocket square is a like a glorious spring blossom exploding out of his pocket. The way the oranges pick up the colours in his tie and the specs in the jacket. The combination is amazing!

Big shoutouts to M. Fan for an incredibly inspirational blog about fine clothing for the refined gentleman.

Me looking totally fat at Calvin Klein Fall 2009

I can’t believe we both showed up wearing the same Calvin Klein motorcross jacket and Kurt Cobain hair. Only, I grew mine out to hide my jowls.

calvin klein
Kanye, me (looking like I’m storing hors d’œuvres in my chins for winter 2009), that guy from Gossip Girl (Zac or Bailey or whatever), and the beautiful beautiful beautiful Patrick Wilson who was amazing in Little Children and Angels in America.

Gotta love tall, handsome and talented redheads.

I like how Tim Blanks heads straight for the token black celebrity to ask about the neoprene bullet-proof vest-inspired jacket.

What’s happening for Fall 2009? *fog horn*

Re-run chic for Fall 09, anyone?

Not feeling the beret though so I hope the beret never comes back in style. But the runways look like stuff present day Re-run would wear.

I’m thinking the fall season is all about plaids, patterns, grandfather knits, older looking muted colours mixed with pure hues, browns and softer textures like velour, velvet, corduroy and even softer denim. Things like unique buttons and toggles are totally hot. And it’s all things that I personally love.
Also, I think Kanye (God forbid) has had a bit of an influence on this year’s stuff, I hate to admit it. The mix of urban prep and Americana is happening again on the runways. If anyone has any reports on Fall 2009 runway music selections, hit me up!

Band of Outsiders:

Tim Hamilton:

Thom Browne:


Rag & Bone:

Looks like things are getting a little geekier and strategically baggier.

Ya, berets remind me of smelly Frenchmen who don’t tip.

God, I miss Paris. 😦

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