I’ve finally completed my kitchen renovation and and I can sit back, relax and enjoy some men’s fashion again. I designed a budget “luxe” modern kitchen with clean lines, slab cabinets and geometric details. People would say that it’s not me but I think it’s perfect for my mindset right now. I just want a proper workspace where I can make stellar meals and not feel like I’m eating in a dump. Modern was the way to go and I’m slowly losing interest in ornate and eccentric things. This simplified sensibility has bled into my taste in summer clothing too. I do enjoy that Italian seaside gear I picked up in Europe last year but I’m looking forward to wearing some modern clothing: geometric prints, colour blocking, grids, sheen and sharp cuts. Just like the new Calvin Klein collection!
A lot of people are reacting negatively to the collection but I feel like it’s exciting in a subtle way. I love the proportions, I love the cute little logo peaking out from the bottom of the shirts, I love the monochromatic looks and I especially love the colour palette. Such unconventional mixes.
I can’t believe I have nothing nasty to say. Unemployment has made me soft.
Good thing I start a job soon… Look out art world, Sunny Fong is returning!
I recently stumbled upon Wayne Fitzell, an MA graduate from the famous Central St. Martins.
He recently showed at London Fashion Week and as I perused his collection, the clothing grew on me. I especially dig all the pieces with the giraffe motif.
I do like the proportions and the subtle mix of street style and safari sleuth. He uses details mostly seen on smarter sportswear pieces. I’m way too boring to wear 99% of anything on any runway so I’m not running out to purchase anything but I do think it works as a collection. I’m not big on the muted colour palette personally but he’s definitely one to keep an eye on. The pieces are inspiring, clean and incredibly rebellious. In a sea of Cheap Monday jeans and vests, it’s nice to see something a little more avant-garde but also wearable on many levels. I’m so sick of pure 90’s all over the place. I like taking inspiration from different eras but doing a blatant head-to-toe throwback for an outfit is, in the words of Tim Gunn, too costume-y IMO. That’s where wannabe hipsters and mall rats get fashion wrong.
Anyway, if Y-3 were smart, they’d grab this guy and give him the reigns.
Speaking of minimalism (and buzz collections for that matter), Calvin Klein Fall 2009 received a lot of praise, eh? I’m still hearing about it.
What I failed to mention was that I did get to party with Patrick Wilson that night in LES. He took me back to his hotel to party some more and we tried on a few of the free stuff that got driven back by Marcos. Let’s just say I ended up flagging a cab down at 6:30 AM in front of the Maritime with a stinky index finger. Mmm hmmm…
Speaking Janelle Monáe, her Colonel Sanders-esque retro get-ups (complete with bowling shoes in which she can moonwalk in among other impressive dance moves) brings to mind the recent trend of luxury menswear on women.
The trend never really did catch on on a mainstream level but has been a consistent visitor to the collections in France and London.
Look at Kate Moss here all fucked on coke, doing karaoke at the Viper Room in a Dior Homme leather cape.
My uber feminine Barbie doll friend Lori bought a Jack Spade messenger and for some reason, it’s just so much more hotter than if she had gone and got a giant Balanciaga. Something about a woman carrying a men’s briefcase does it for me as well. In Paris, I spotted a few gals carrying vintage attachés paired with their Louboutins.
Kate Moss in a Dior Homme suit
But who wants everyone to jump on the gender play bandwagon anyway? It would just ruin it. Look at the Chanel suit. Lagerfeld was smart to charge an insanely unaffordable amount for this timeless look because then every yenta from Long Island to Las Vegas would be throwing it over their bedroom ottomans.
I think Meredith Viera almost ruined it because she was always wearing those fringed blazers on television but other than a few lonely housewives, I think it’s safe to saw that the Chanel jacket is once again a classic item that isn’t ubiquitous enough to get boring.
Ashes in a Calvin Klein men’s tuxedo…
Can someone please tell Posh Spice to continue wearing menswear?
Doesn’t she look much more fuckable in a suit than her horrible little strappy dresses?
Don’t even me started on her own clothing line. It’s all atrocious but I digress.
And for once, Sofia Coppola (big fan here though) doesn’t look like she’d talk your head off about her belly button lint and her collection of Polaroid cameras.
Most of the time, I look at her and I just want to slap the shit out of her (Happy International Women’s Day btw) but here, she looks sexy, almost confident…
Hmm… Maybe because she looks like a man?
Maybe I’m just a huge misogynist. But aren’t all men in fashion misogynists?
Isn’t it all about control and how gay men essentially get to now dictate what women wear? Oooooh, that’s another entry in itself…
Supposedly “big” this past winter (even though no one really wore it because it was so fucking cold) and apparently big again in Fall 2009, I’m championing tweed items for Spring 2009. Perfect for a brisker April evening.
Like this cap!
Get one at Bates next time you’re in London.
2. LOGO’D SHIRTS
Nothing too fancy or that looks like it came from a design collective.
NOT like this:
No eurotrash phrases being incorporated in a griffin or mixed with paint splatters. Just a logo of you favourite store. Your favourite television show. Your favourite record company (current or dead). A plain ol’ stark logo.
Kait, you better still have my 99 cent MTV shirt that I bought at Value Village in high school. I love that shirt.
But lose the fake glasses though, please.
Bigger the better.
3. BEER STUFF
While we’re on logos, let’s salute spring with beer paraphernalia…
Not for its irony factor but because it always seems to be available.
In a sea of florals, neutrals, patterns and ornate trims – remnants from winter and from the Fall 2009 collections – it’s nice to see a few people doing solid colours in pure hues of the basic primaries and secondaries.
Think Mondrian meets American sportswear.
This Michael Kors jacket is a great colour and an incredible fabric to wear it in…
Band of Outsiders gives this suit a much needed pop with a pure yellow…
Calvin Klein adds a little zing as well…
Taking inspiration from hipster kid colour blocking, Marc by Marc Jacobs puts some ketchup on his fries for spring…
Usually known for using bold hues in their detailing, piping and under lapels, Etro turned down the volume for spring with muted patterns, elegant sheens and muddy tertiary colours. But I did find one great almost Hermes-ish carrot orange bag made with a pure red and yellow. I definitely would love more stuff in this colour.
Jussara Lee does this amazing Macintosh trench for a cool $1,100…
Jil Sander used pure hues to play with proportion. Not that she needed to as her younger models and customers are always these freaks of nature anyway. Like little pale blank emaciated canvasses walking down a runway.
All images yoinked from Mens Style.
5. IRONIC T-SHIRTS
While we’re on logo t-shirts and beer, the ironic t-shirt is back in my eyes. Nothing too meta, po-po-mo or conceptual.
I’m talkin’ about good ol’ blatant 90’s irony.
What’s also great is that if you are actually famous enough to pull off something self-referential:
Two words: hate fuck.
PS: god bless the piece of white trash that is Marky Mark, eh?
God, this recent nice weather has made me totally randy!
I can’t believe we both showed up wearing the same Calvin Klein motorcross jacket and Kurt Cobain hair. Only, I grew mine out to hide my jowls.
Kanye, me (looking like I’m storing hors d’œuvres in my chins for winter 2009), that guy from Gossip Girl (Zac or Bailey or whatever), and the beautiful beautiful beautiful Patrick Wilson who was amazing in Little Children and Angels in America.
Gotta love tall, handsome and talented redheads.
I like how Tim Blanks heads straight for the token black celebrity to ask about the neoprene bullet-proof vest-inspired jacket.
Looking for a great suit? I found this exact Calvin suit pictured (plus a whole variety of greys in pinstripe and solids) at the Winners at Bay and Bloor.
And not only were the suits well-constructed, they had tons of sizes (I tried on a 38S that fit like a glove) and were all slim fit.
But despite the fit, never buy a suit without taking it to a proper tailor. And don’t think that a frou-frou ritzy tailor does magical things. I have no patience for places that spend more time on shop renovations than perfecting their craft.
Need a suit tailored? Go to Paul’s on Bathurst. A shitty dry cleaning shop with horrible air circulation. But you’ll be greeted with a smile and two brothers who know contemporary suits.